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FAIR USE NOTICE FAIR USE NOTICE: This page may contain copyrighted material the use of which has not been specifically authorized by the copyright owner. This website distributes this material without profit to those who have expressed a prior interest in receiving the included information for scientific, research and educational purposes. We believe this constitutes a fair use of any such copyrighted material as provided for in 17 U.S.C § 107.

Read more at: http://www.etupdates.com/fair-use-notice/#.UpzWQRL3l5M | ET. Updates
FAIR USE NOTICE FAIR USE NOTICE: This page may contain copyrighted material the use of which has not been specifically authorized by the copyright owner. This website distributes this material without profit to those who have expressed a prior interest in receiving the included information for scientific, research and educational purposes. We believe this constitutes a fair use of any such copyrighted material as provided for in 17 U.S.C § 107.

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Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Liquid Nitrogen And Food: A Potentially Lethal Concoction

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Liquid Nitrogen And Food: A Potentially Lethal Concoction


October 9, 2012


Image Credit: Photos.com
April Flowers for redOrbit.com – Your Universe Online
In the UK last week, an 18 year old woman’s birthday celebration ended in emergency surgery to remove her perforated stomach. The cause: a cocktail prepared using liquid nitrogen. The tragedy has prompted an intense look at the use of liquid nitrogen in food and beverage preparation.
Gaby Scanlon ingested the “correctly prepared Jagermeister drink made with liquid nitrogen” at her 18th birthday celebration. Shortly thereafter she began to feel sick, “becoming breathless and developing severe stomach pain.” When Gaby reached the hospital, she was diagnosed with a perforated stomach, which had to be removed.
Dr. Malcolm Povey, professor of food physics at Leeds University, explains what probably happened to Gaby.
“The liquid nitrogen would rapidly change into gas and blow the stomach up like a balloon,” he said. “The idea that people put this stuff in drinks is just unbelievable.”
At a boiling point of -196C, liquid nitrogen is used for a variety of industrial applications including coolant for computers, to remove skin growths and cancers, and in cryogenic studies where scientists examine the effects of very cold temperatures on materials.
Top restaurants have increasingly used it as a method for instantly freezing food and drinks, or creating a cloud or vapor special effect. Chef Heston Blumenthal made the avant-garde cooking technique famous with his nitro-scrambled egg and bacon ice cream and nitro-parched aperitifs at his Berkshire, UK, restaurant, the Fat Duck.
Since then, it has become a popular technique at restaurants and dozens of recipes have shown up on the internet.
University of Bristol’s School of Physics Professor Peter Barham says that liquid nitrogen is “simply the harmless gas nitrogen, which has been cooled to such a low temperature that it becomes a liquid”.
If not handled properly, Barham says, the liquefied gas can cause frostbite or cryogenic burns. Using it in cooking is fine, as long as proper safety measures are taken.
“If liquid nitrogen is added to a liquid such as an ice-cream mixture, it cools the liquid rapidly while it boils away and produces a cloud of vapor. The technique is used by some restaurants to prepare instant ice creams at the table – the rapid freezing produces an ice cream with particularly small ice crystals which has a very smooth texture,” he says.
Ingesting liquid nitrogen should never be done, and it is essential that all the liquid has evaporated before any food or drink prepared with it is used.
Gaby Scanlon’s tragedy has prompted the UK’s Food Standards Agency to issue a warning, telling consumers to “take care when drinking cocktails made with this substance.”
Director of public health for the county of Cumbria, Dr. John Ashton said that Gaby was “the victim of an irresponsible alcohol industry that’s now competing on gimmicks.” The police say the bar involved has suspended selling drinks prepared with liquid nitrogen and is cooperating with the investigation.
John Emsley, science writer and fellow at the Royal Society of Chemistry, says that if more than a “trivial” amount of liquid nitrogen is swallowed the results are disastrous.
“If you drank more than a few drops of liquid nitrogen, certainly a teaspoon, it would freeze, and become solid and brittle like glass. Imagine if that happened in the alimentary canal or the stomach. The liquid also quickly picks up heat, boils and becomes a gas, which could cause damage such as perforations or cause a stomach to burst,” he says.
Emsley asserted he would be surprised if someone could swallow liquid nitrogen. “It would be extremely cold in anyone’s mouth – people would want to spit it out immediately,” he says.
Emsley believes the liquid nitrogen is safe in the hands of chefs and bartenders trained to use it, he suggests that there should be a very strong warning not to “play” with it. “It can be a bit of a novelty in the hands of experts, but it would be a different territory in the hands of the general public.”
“If you put your finger in liquid nitrogen, it would go rock solid and fall off,” he says.
David Morris, Tory MP for Morecambe and Lunsdale, UK, has called for a ban on drinks made with liquid nitrogen following Scanlon’s ordeal. “I would like to see these drinks banned from sale so we do not see anyone else’s son or daughter injured or even killed.”

Source: April Flowers for redOrbit.com - Your Universe Online


Read more at http://www.redorbit.com/news/health/1112709477/liquid-nitrogen-food-100912/#QZlQCRmtyHbPhBch.99

Issues of the Sanitation of Ice-Making Equipment



Food Safety Magazine



PROCESS CONTROL | August/September 2013

The Sanitation of Ice-Making Equipment

By Robert W. Powitz, Ph.D., M.P.H., R.S., C.F.S.P.
The Sanitation of Ice-Making Equipment
Sixty years ago, an article on the sanitation of crushed ice was published in the Journal of the American Medical Association.[1] The authors commented that an investigation of crushed ice revealed heavy contamination with coliform organisms. They opined that the contaminants can be introduced into crushed ice in many ways, chiefly by dust from the floors of freezing rooms, trucks and restaurants as well as by reusing soiled containers and through human hand contact. Of these, it was no small wonder that handling during dispensing was found to be the most prolific source.

It took another 15 years for the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention to issue a publication in which epidemiologists traced several outbreaks of gastrointestinal illness—including noroviruses—to the use of contaminated ice, although many of these were in hospital settings (see “Safe Ice: The Cold, Hard Facts”). Nonetheless, ice is no different from food or water when viewed as a comestible. However, there are differences between ice and potentially hazardous foods. First, even though the temperature of ice is well within the “safety zone,” ice machines are prone to microbial contamination. Even clean, potable water can become contaminated ice in ways that may not be readily apparent. Secondly, using a classical Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points approach in evaluating the use of ice in the average retail food establishment will reveal that ice manufacturing, storage, distribution and handling is quite complex because of its almost universal use in preparation, service and as a food. The analysis will reveal Critical Control Points we would never imagine when dealing with meat or poultry. Additionally, applying a detailed plan review to the use and traffic of ice in a typical restaurant, the patterns that are revealed would make any sanitarian cringe, particularly those that lead to multiple and inappropriate handling practices. Finally, because ice is so common and its use is constant and universal, we tend to view ice much the same way we do water. The assumption is that both water and ice are clean, with the latter merely being an extension of the tap.

Controlling Contamination
Since the recognition of ice as a source of microbial contamination, science has given us a better understanding of biofilm production and its control. Biofilms are a collection of microorganisms, mainly bacteria, growing together in a matrix of polymers secreted by the microorganisms. The associated slime formation is mold or fungus that accumulates from bacterial growth on surfaces constantly exposed to clinging water drops and warm temperatures. The biofilm may cause objectionable flavors and odors in ice. Once well-developed biofilms establish themselves on surfaces, cleaning and sanitation become much more difficult. Biofilms have a shielding effect on the bacterial cells that live within them. It is well known that normal cleaning and sanitizing methods may not control or eliminate biofilms, but rather they must be physically removed or prevented from forming on surfaces. For instance, Listeria can be 1,000 times harder to eliminate if it is living in a protective biofilm and can be a continual source of pathogenic and spoilage organisms if not completely removed.

Manufacturers of ice machines recognize the biofilm phenomenon and have engineered units that minimize its formation and facilitate its removal. Clean ice, clean ice storage bins and sanitary handling practices are the key to improving the product quality.

The current and traditional methods of sanitation have come under scrutiny by the manufacturers of ice machines and providers of standards for these units, such as NSF International (NSF/ANSI 12–2012: Automatic Ice Making Equipment). Because of manufacturers’ initiatives, users are given more options for ice machine configurations, capacities and methods of delivery to minimize the inherent problems of the earlier units. These enhancements include automated cleaning cycles, light indicators when the unit needs cleaning and servicing, sensors that detect scale buildup and construction with materials that facilitate ease of cleaning and confer a degree of bacteriostasis on its wettable parts. In addition, manufacturers report that 70 percent of ice machine performance problems are associated with the water supply, through poor water quality, slow fill or insufficient water supply, and have acted accordingly to cope with these problems as well. All manufacturers now provide customers with valuable information on selection and operations.

The Regulatory Environment
The regulatory community has become more aware of the potential for contamination and is now asking questions as part of the inspection process regarding frequency and methods of routine sanitation, and operations and maintenance in accordance with manufacturers’ recommendations. When ice machines are inspected, it is clear that many are not cleaned and sanitized very often, if ever. Mold and slime buildup inside them is quite visible. Numerous studies show that dirty, contaminated ice is more common than people think.

As the ice-making machine has changed, so have the laws governing ice used for human consumption. Consider the following. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration Food Code is the standard. Chapter 1 part 1-201.10 defines ice as food. This mandates ice to the same handling and cleanliness standards as everything else in retail food, including manufacturing equipment. Ice itself falls under 40 C.F.R. 141 governing drinking water purity. Ice machine cleaning is governed by Food Law 2009 Chapter 4 part 602.11 section (E) item (4a and b), which states that the machines must be cleaned “at a frequency specified by the manufacturer,” which in most instances ranges from two to four times per year, or “at a frequency necessary to preclude accumulation of soil or mold.” Ice machine sanitizing is governed by Chapter 4 part 702.11, which states that the ice contact surfaces must be sanitized after each cleaning. Annex 7 Form 2A section 5 states: Federal law provides under the Criminal Fine Enforcement Act of 1984 for a fine up to $100,000 for a misdemeanor by a corporation or individual not resulting in death and, for misdemeanors resulting in death, a fine of up to $250,000 for individuals and $500,000 for corporations. The bottom line is that cleaning and sanitizing the ice machine on a regular basis is required by law, whereas operations and maintenance in accordance with manufacturers’ recommendations extend the optimal life of the unit and help minimize risk of contamination.

There are several common-sense guidelines that should be followed to avoid liability problems associated with contaminated ice in addition to adhering to manufacturers’ recommendations on cleaning and maintenance. Not mentioned in most manufacturers’ instructions are the following common-sense issues:

The sanitary handling of ice. All workers who handle ice should be taught the following precautions:

•    Wash hands before obtaining ice.

•    Hold the ice scoop by the handle and do not touch other parts of the scoop.

•    Do not handle the ice with hands.

•    Do not return unused ice to ice storage chest or ice machine.

The sanitation of equipment. The following practices should be part of the facility’s operations:

•    Keep the access doors to ice storage chests and ice machines closed except when removing ice.

•    Ice scoops should be smooth and protected against contact with contaminated surfaces such as floors, access door handles, service carts and non-food contact surfaces, to cite a few examples. Scoops should be kept on an uncovered stainless steel, impervious plastic or fiberglass tray when not in use. The tray and scoop should be cleaned daily in the kitchen scullery dishwasher.

•    Remove all extraneous equipment and items from around or in the ice storage chests and ice-making machines, and if possible, limit access to them.

•    Clean the ice storage chests on preferably a weekly schedule, but no less than monthly.

•    Consider routine microbiologic sampling of the ice and ice contact surfaces of the machine. Although this is not necessary, it can provide guidance on cleaning frequency and methods.

As a final note, there is an excellent guideline on procedures for cleaning contaminated ice machines developed by the U.S. Army Center for Health Promotion and Preventive Medicine, Food Sanitation and Environmental Health, DEHE. It’s available atphc.amedd.army.mil/PHC%20Resource%20Library/57-019-1205ProceduresforCleaningIceMachinesfs.pdf

Forensic sanitarian Robert W. Powitz, Ph.D., M.P.H., R.S., C.F.S.P., is principal consultant and technical director of Old Saybrook, CT–based R.W. Powitz & Associates, a professional corporation of forensic sanitarians who specialize in environmental and public health litigation support services to law firms, insurance companies, governmental agencies and industry. For more than 12 years, he was the director of environmental health and safety for Wayne State University in Detroit, MI, where he continues to hold the academic rank of adjunct professor in the College of Engineering. He also served as director of biological safety and environment for the U.S. Department of Agriculture at the Plum Island Animal Disease Center at Orient Point, NY. Among his honors, Powitz has received the NSF/NEHA Walter F. Snyder Award for achievement in attaining environmental quality and the AAS Davis Calvin Wagner Award for excellence as a sanitarian and advancing public health practice. He is the first to hold the title of Diplomate Laureate in the American Academy of Sanitarians and is a diplomate in the American Academy of Certified Consultants and Experts and with the American Board of Forensic Engineering and Technology. Dr. Powitz can be reached at Powitz@sanitarian.com or through his website at www.sanitarian.com.

Reference
1. Sanitation of crushed ice. 1953. JAMA 153(12):1101.
 


Safe Ice: The Cold, Hard Facts

As all frequent travelers know, it’s best to avoid drinking beverages that contain ice when in less-developed countries. The ice could be made from contaminated water, and that can make you sick. But local ice made with fresh water should always be safe, right?

In fact, ice can and does cause foodborne illness in developed countries such as the United States. Some of the illnesses are caused by bacteria and some are caused by viruses. Many outbreaks have been linked to the presence of norovirus in the ice. In some cases, the norovirus came from contaminated well water that had been used to make the ice, in other cases, from poor handling practices. Other outbreaks associated with ice consumption have been caused by Salmonella, hepatitis A and Escherichia coli O157:H7.

There is no excuse for using contaminated water to make ice; freezing water does not kill bacteria, nor does it inactivate viruses. Viral particles can survive undamaged in ice for lengthy periods, and just a few viral particles can cause illness. In fact, norovirus has been described as the most infectious agent ever studied in humans. It accounts for more than one-half of all foodborne illnesses. Last year, over 11,000 children in Europe were sickened by norovirus that was in a shipment of frozen strawberries from China. Norovirus usually finds its way into food, including ice, due to poor handling practices. Norovirus originates in human fecal matter, and improperly washed hands are thought to be the main cause of contamination. If you have ever seen a bar person drag a glass through an ice tub with his bare hands or watched an employee drop the ice scoop back into an ice machine bin with the handle coming into contact with the ice, you have seen a norovirus outbreak waiting to happen.

If ice is handled with care, many problems can be prevented. However, the ice itself must be safe to begin with. Most commercial quantities of ice are made using ice machines or ice makers that are permanently connected to a water supply. It is the responsibility of the ice machine operator to ensure that the water supply is safe. If the water comes from a well on the premises, the water must be tested frequently. If it is connected to a municipal water supply, remember that if the authorities notify you of any problem with the water, then the ice from the ice machine may not be safe.

Cleaning and sanitizing the ice machine is another very important step to provide safe ice. Ice machines should be cleaned and sanitized using the chemical products supplied by the machine manufacturer at least once per month. Machines on some sites will require even more frequent cleaning, especially those in environments with dusty air, high humidity or high airborne microbiological load. Bakeries, microbreweries, sandwich outlets with on-site baking and bars with draft beer on tap can have high concentrations of airborne yeast, and this can cause microbiological buildup to happen very quickly inside ice machines in these environments.

Needless to say, cleaning an ice machine can be a difficult and expensive exercise. In a large commercial kitchen, it is often performed by outside contractors, and these contracts can be the first to be downsized when cost-cutting measures are called for. In addition, deep cleaning and servicing involve dismantling the equipment, which can be difficult to do without disrupting kitchen service.

Some ice machines are better designed than others for ease of cleaning. Nooks and crannies, joints and deeply squared internal corners are difficult to clean because cloths and brushes do not penetrate easily. A well-designed ice machine will have rounded internal corners on its ice chutes and ice bins, smooth internal surfaces and an easy-to-access, ice-making chamber. External surfaces should be impervious, corrosion resistant and designed so that food scraps, grime and dust can easily be wiped off. Water contact and ice contact surfaces inside the machine should be made only from food-safe materials to prevent
migration of unwanted chemicals into the ice.

Ice machine sanitation has recently received a boost from new technology that can aid in the prevention of biofilm formation. Many new models of ice makers include a built-in device that uses ultraviolet (UV) light technology to convert air and water vapor from inside the ice machine into powerful oxidants that circulate through the machine and destroy microorganisms.

Retrofit systems using a similar UV disinfection technology are also on the market and can be installed into all makes and models of commercial ice machine equipment. Both the factory-installed and retrofit systems require only a simple annual UV lamp replacement to maintain effectiveness. Users of these devices
report significantly cleaner ice-making chambers, with less mold and slime.
  
Karen Constable is the certification manager of HACCP International.
Categories: SanitationBiofilm ControlFood Prep/HandlingPersonal Hygiene/HandwashingSSOPs

Friday, May 23, 2014

8 Beers That You Should Stop Drinking Immediately


8 Beers That You Should Stop Drinking Immediately

http://themindunleashed.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/villageee.jpg
Here are the 8 beers that are commonly found in bars in United States that you should stop drinking immediately.
Many of us choose what we eat very carefully, or at least dedicate our minimum attention to it. But when it comes to drinks, especially alcoholic beverages, we do little to make the best decisions for our health. Which is a HUGE mistake. All the work for your body can be ruined in a weekend out. While foods and non alcoholic beverages are required to list their ingredients and are monitored by the FDA, beer does not belong in either. Alcohol industry had lobbied for years to avoid labeling its ingredients. Some to protect its recipes, but most – to hide harmful ingredients.
Here’s some harmful ingredients that are commonly found in beer:
  • GMO Corn Syrup
  • GMO Corn
  • High Fructose Corn Syrup
  • Fish Bladder
  • Propylene Glycol
  • Monosodium Glutamate (MSG)
  • Natural Flavors
  • GMO Sugars
  • Caramel Coloring
  • Insect-Based Dyes
  • Carrageenan
  • BPA
  • & lots more!

1. NEWCASTLE BROWN ALE

newcastle gmo beer
The Newcastle beer has been found to contain caramel coloring. Class 3 and 4 caramel coloring is made from ammonia, which is classified as a carcinogen. While alcohol is a carcinogen itself, drinking it in moderation may decrease your chances at developing cancer. However, more added carcinogens will have the opposite effect. “The one and only” beer with extra cancer causing qualities.

2. BUDWEISER

budweiser gmo beer
One of the most popular beers, or most advertised is Budweiser. Budweiser contains genetically modified (GMO) corn. In 2007, Greenpeace discovered experimental GMO rice in Anheuser-Busch (Budweiser) beer.

3. CORONA EXTRA

corona-gmo-beer
I used to love Corona’s commercials. They were so peaceful and relaxing. That is until I found out that the beer contains GMO Corn Syrup and Propylene Glycol. Propylene Glycol is controversial, and is said to may be potentially harmful to your health.

4. MILLER LITE

Miller-Lite-GMO
This is another very popular beer in America that contains GMOs. Miller Lite contains GMO corn and corn syrup. It’s “GMO time”.

5. MICHELOB ULTRA

michelob-ultra-gmoLess popular but still readily available Michelob beer, should be eliminated from your choices. This beer has been found to contain a genetically modified sweetener (GMO dextrose).

6. GUINNESS

guinness-gmo-beer
Guinness is often praised for it’s smoothness.  However, several investigations proved that Guinness ingredients are quite disturbing. The beer contains isinglass, an ingredient which comes from fish bladder and high fructose corn syrup. High fructose corn syrup has been long banned from many stores and drinks.
Update: Good news! We’ve contacted Guinness and they have stated that they no longer use high fructose corn syrup in any of their beers.

7. COORS LIGHT

Coors-Light-GMO
Coors light is a drink that is very popular at bars and among college students.  Mostly because its cheap. The beer contains GMO corn syrup.

8. PABST BLUE RIBBON

Pabst-Blue-Ribbon-GMO
Pabst Blue Ribbon contains GMO corn and GMO corn syrup.

HEALTHY BEER ALTERNATIVES

So when it comes to beer you have to be very careful. Your best option is to find a microbrewery that you can trust. As with everything, try to avoid cheap, low-quality products. Bars may offer Coors Light, Miller Lite or Budweiser specials, but they are cheap for a reason. The rest of the world is banning GMOs everywhere, while USA is lagging years behind, and only several states offer GMO labeling laws. Try to stay away from any American beers. Choose organic beer. Beers that contain 100% organic labels, have to have ingredients that are all 100% organic. While an “organic” label just means 95% of it will be organic.  European beer is most likely to be safe from GMO ingredients but unfortunately, most other beer contains GMO artificial ingredients, stabilizers, grains and preservatives, plus, HFCS.

GMO FREE BEERS:

Organic Beers (Unpasteurized & Unfiltered) 
  • Wolaver’s – all beers
  • Lamar Street – Whole Foods label (brewed by Goose Island)
  • Bison – all beers
  • Dogfish Head (organic when ingredients available)
  • Fish Brewery Company – Fish Tale Ales
  • Lakefront Brewery – Organic ESB
  • Brooklyn – (organic when ingredients are available)
  • Pinkus – all beers
  • Samuel Smiths – Samuel Smiths Organic Ale
  • Wychwood – Scarecrow Ale
Non-Organic Beers (Unpasteurized & Unfiltered)
  • Sierra Nevada – all choices
  • Duck Rabbit – Brown Ale, Porter, Amber Ale, Milk Stout
  • Dogfish Head- 60 Minute IPA, Shelter Pale Ale, Chicory Stout
  • Shipyard – Summer Brew
  • Victory Brewery – Whirlwind
  • North Coast – Blue Star
  • Bridgeport – IPA (Bottle conditioned)
  • Ayinger – all choices
  • Royal Oak – Pale Ale
  • Fraziskaner – Hefeweisse and Dunkel Weisse
  • Weihenstephaner – Hefe Weissbier
  • Maisel’s – Weisse
  • Hoegaarden – Belgian Wit
Other
  • Heineken
  • Steamwhistle
  • Amstel Light
  • Duchy Original Ale Organic
  • Mill Street Brewery
  • Fuller’s Organic
  • Nelson Organic Ale
  • Natureland Organic

SHARE THIS WITH FELLOW BEER DRINKERS

It’s important to expose companies that use harmful ingredients in our products. This information is hidden from the public with millions of dollars of false advertising, laws, etc. You can always vote with your money. As this information about GMO beers spreads, we will see a decrease in production of these beers and the companies may eliminate the harmful ingredients altogether. Most importantly, when you hang out with your friends, you will be able to share beer that’s more delicious and healthier.
If you have any additional information about GMO or non-gmo beers, or want to correct some of the information, simply e-mail us or leave a comment with evidence bellow.
Sources:
Credits:
This article first appeared on organics.org via whydontyoutrythis.com
Featured image courtesy of: Villagegreennetwork.com

Wednesday, May 21, 2014

Even Vegans Will Enjoy These ‘Meats’










Jane Says: Even Vegans Will Enjoy These ‘Meats’

Mock proteins can be fun and delicious, but they don’t solve all the environmental problems associated with animal products.

The Truth About Fake Meat and Meat Substitutes for Vegetarians and Vegans
Lentil burger (Photo: Jennifer/Flickr)
 
Jane Lear was on staff at 'Gourmet' for almost 20 years.
As someone who recently became a vegetarian inching toward vegan, Im fascinated by all the faux meat products I see at the store. Veggie burgers are one thing, but “chicken” strips and “fish” fillets? Whats the story with the fake stuff?
 
Richard Coyle
 
Happy National Vegetarian Week! There is little that is new under the sun, and that also goes for “fake meat”—a term with a negative connotation but certainly catchier than “plant-based protein” or “meat analog.” This particular type of culinary trompe l’oeil (French for “that which deceives the eye”) has its roots most notably in Japan, a country that’s home to two ancient, intertwined examples of the art form: mukimono (decorative vegetable carving) and modoki, the mock foods of the temple cuisine that originated in the seventh century.
“The inherent respect for life that eschews consumption of animal products as food has deep history in Japan,” wrote Japanese-food authority Elizabeth Andoh in a paper presented at the Oxford Symposium on Food & Cookery in 2008. “Japan’s indigenous spiritual orientation, Shinto, discouraged the regular consumption of animals for food. When Buddhism arrived in Japan from mainland Asia in the late 6th century, previous reticence turned to prohibition. The first edict to officially ban meat-eating was proclimated by Emperor Temmu in 675 AD, and from that point Japanese culinary activity focused on the plant world.”
Human nature is nothing if not complicated and contrary, and Andoh took care to elaborate: “A longing for meat, or at least hefty and hearty fare [...] continued, especially among the privileged classes that had become accustomed to feasting on foods such as wild game and fowl after sporting hunts. The Heian Period (794–1185 AD) saw the development of a host of modoki dishes. These ‘mock’ foods seemed to be one thing (wild goose, duck, eel, or perhaps an omelet) when in reality they were something quite different (mostly derived from soy).”
Modoki foods engage the chef and diner in a special relationship, Andoh added. “The culinary practitioner must have keen powers of observation to discern what shape, texture, color gradation, flavor, or aroma will convey the essence of that food or object to the person who is dining. In turn, the diner must come to the table with a vivid imagination and a sense of humor. Japan’s culinary trompe l’oeil is not about deception, but rather about kando (awe) and kansha (appreciation).” Perhaps it’s time to start looking at tofu turkey—the Rodney Dangerfield of the meat-alternative universe—in a different light.
Andoh gave examples of several modoki dishes that have been enjoyed for centuries and probably much longer. Included in an 18th-century recipe collection called Tofu Hyaku Chin(“One Hundred Unusual Things to Do With Tofu”), is gan modoki (“evocation of wild goose”), a mock meatball made from mashed tofu mixed with bits of marine and terrestrial vegetables. Bound together with viscous, grated yam, the meatball is deep-fried, then simmered in a soy-tinged broth. “Still a tremendously popular menu item, pre-made ganmo (the shortened ‘nickname’ used currently to describe these dumplings) are sold at every tofu shop and supermarket in Japan,” she wrote.
In the United States, the increasing demand for mock meats was the subject of a recent piece in the business section of The New York Times. It’s fueled by “trends as varied as increased vegetarianism and concerns over the impact of industrial-scale animal husbandry on the environment,” wrote Stephanie Strom. “For whatever reason, the desire to replace meat proteins with proteins derived from plants is spreading, although the market is still minuscule. Mintel, a market research firm, reports that sales of meat alternatives grew 8 percent from 2010 to 2012, when sales hit $553 million.”
Morningstar Farms accounts for more than 60 percent of the market (the brand’s product line includes veggie dogs, burgers made from ingredients such as black beans and chickpeas, and breakfast sandwiches), while new companies, such as Gardein and Beyond Meat, have sprung up in the past five years or so.
“Some investors look at the development of viable meat alternatives as a sustainability issue,” Strom wrote. “ ‘Frankly, we’ve never said we’ve interested in food,’ said Randy Komisar, a partner at Kleiner Perkins Caufield Byers, a venture capital firm that has backed Google and Facebook—and Beyond Meat.” The story continues: “Among the problems he listed that his firm’s investment in Beyond Meat are intended to address are land and water use, stress on global supple chains, and the world’s growing population. ‘These are venture-scale problems with venture-scale returns,’ Mr. Komisar said.”
They’re all that and then some, but just how environmentally friendly are meat alternatives? Not so much, as it turns out. In a November 2012 market trends piece on Food Navigator, Caroline Scott-Thomas writes that the fractionation process used to separate soy and wheat, for example, into their constituent parts—proteins, oils, and soluble and insoluble fibers—is often highly energy intensive. She quotes Atze van der Goot, associate professor of food process engineering at Wageningen University, who spoke at the European Federation of Food Science and Technology, in Montpellier, France: “ ‘Due to the inefficiencies in the process to make meat alternatives, we lose completely the environmental benefits.’ ” But he went on to suggest that perhaps complete fractionation was not necessary. “ ‘Partial fractionation might be sufficient, and partial fractionation is of course more energy efficient,’ ” he said. Wageningen’s Jacqueline Berghout, who researches meat analogs derived from—get this—lupin seeds, built on his idea in another session. “ ‘First we take the whole product apart and then we add [the constituents] together to make a product out of it...because we are focused on the purity of the fractions,” she explained, concluding, “Is it really necessary to make these pure ingredients? No food consists of one single ingredient.”
Even if meat analogs, which are primarily made from soy, can be produced in a more sustainable way, there’s no getting around that today soy is a controversial ingredient health-wise, and if it’s not organic, it’s genetically modified. Meat alternatives also may contain higher levels of sodium than their real meat counterparts.
The takeaway? Meat alternatives are a choice. No one says you have to incorporate them into your diet, but if you’re curious, give them a try. Especially if a family member balks at a cauliflower “steak” or a portobello mushroom burger, a meat-alternative chili or lasagna, for instance, or chicken salad may help pave the way for more meatless meals. Do some comparison shopping beforehand, and look for products with as few (and non-G.M.) ingredients as possible, with low sodium.